Nils Favre and Symon Welfringer sends "Paciencia" (8a or X-)

The Swiss Nils Favre and the French Symon Welfringer have now succeeded in repeating „Paciencia“  (8a or X-), one of the most difficult routes in the north face of the Eiger. Both could flash / onsight climb almost all pitches. Since the first ascent of this route in 2003, the first ascenters Stephan Siegrist und Ueli Steck tried to climb this route red point before giving it an official name. This succeeded in August 2008. Three years later, David Lama sends the first repetition. „Paciencia“ is 900 meters long, spread over 24 pitches and is known for its poor protection.

Symon means: „After waiting good conditions during the whole summer, we finally managed to give a go in this masterpiece opened by @stephansiegrist and the late @steckueli .
„One most demanding rock route in the Alps“ as master @davidlama_official said.

Between excitment and fear, together with @nilsfavre and @damienlargeron we head to the base of the wall with 20/30kg bags full of food and water.
We discovered an entire dry wall, that was a really good surprise after we knew nobody has climbed there because of wet conditions last months. With high motivation and a great team work with @nilsfavre , we manage to send all the pitches .
On my side, I flashed/onsight most of them only 3 pitches I made first go.
All the 24 pitches requires full focus, especially the sketchy 7a/b with big runouts and poor protections. Finally the crux pitches weren’t that hard compare to other lower graded. But the whole route from 6a chimney to crimpy 8a offers magnificent pitches.
Of course, the rock is loose in some part of the easy pitches but in the hard ones I think it’s one the most beautiful limestone of Europe that we have here.
More details to come but really psyched to have shared this journey with @damienlargeron who managed the whole business pretty good and made some amazing shots.“

Fotos: (c) Damien Largeron

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