The young Bavarian Martina Demmel sends with „Formiert = Voi miad“ her first first ascent in the 11th grade. She was kindly referred to an open project by Markus Maier by local Toni Lamprecht. Which she was able to climb after three days and four attempts. Martina is not sure about the grading and looks forward to repeating it soon.
It was the eighth 8c route for Martina this year and in her career so far. That in itself is a great achievement, but when you consider that Martina only started climbing three years ago, that’s all the more remarkable. It was not until April of this year that she „Odd Fellows“ was able to climb her first 8c route.
Photo: (c) Andreas Burger/Fall Steep Paradise
„These days when you arrive at the crag completely exhausted from nothing after two rest days and only wanna lay down to take a nap the whole day sometimes turn out to be the most successful days as the expectations are like blown away even if you know you’re pretty cose sending your project…
I’ve been „Formiert=Voi miad“ after clipping the chains of this old forgotten project/combi (from Markus Meier who hasn’t tried it again for about 10 years) at Afrikawand 3 days ago within 4 tries but with knowing some sections pretty well already from the other climbs!!! The direct and more logical version of „Ratzfatz zum ratzplatz“ by skipping the only rest in the whole climb right before the crux by adding a boulder of tiny sharp crimps and pinches instead. This makes the whole thing to a 38 move resistance beast without a proper rest till you clipp the chains! Just barely possible to chalk up a few times which means that it’s maybe the one longest continious sequence I’ve done so far as I normally find some hidden rests to shake out which unfortunately didn’t happenend in this one… I’m super bad in grading routes as I often experienced that for example 8a’s feel like 8c’s or the other way round…
So the first part is about 8b which leads directly into 6 moves crux with a super high heel hook crossing into a bad pinch (2nd pic) and afterwards, you still have to add the crux of „Conan“ 8a+ which could be/felt like something around 8c…
Let’s wait what repetitors gonna say because I’m simply not sure about it! Even though, it’s just another random link-up, the moves and the rock quality in this part is simply awesome and you won’t regret giving it a try!!
Biggest thanks @kautzisabelle for all the belays including the sending one last Wednesday, @steepparadise for the moody pics during my first attempt and @tonilamprecht for telling me about this old open project as well as allowing me to try it
The psyche for some Kochel-sessions is unstoppable atm!