The route „Meiose“ ( the combination of the routes „Chromosome X“ and „Chromosome Y“) in the Swiss climbing area Charmey was opened by Pirmin Bertle in 2015 as the first 9b in Switzerland. Adam Ondra sends the first repeat in 2018 and downgraded the route to 9a+. This did not go down well with the first ascenter, who spoke out publicly.
Now the route was climbed by Alexander Megos and Alexander Rohr and both even downgraded the route to 9a. Alexander Megos climbed a completely different beta than the first ascenter and therefore graded the route with 9a. With the Beta of the first ascent, the difficulty of the route is „only“ 9a+ according to Alex. Alex Rohr climbed the same beta as Alex Megos and confirmed the 9a: “
„Yesterday I could repeat yet another good and hard route in Charmey. I climbed it exactly like @alexandermegos as I share the same thoughts about eliminating holds. I would like to repeat it the way @pirminbertle did it tough.“




[…] via Heckmair, autoassicurandosi sui tratti più difficili. Questa impresa la rese la seconda donna a compiere la salita in solitaria…
Ich finde es beeindruckend, wenn sich die Leistungen aus dem Wettkampf auch direkt an den Fels übertragen. Draußen braucht man…
Beeindruckend, dass diese Linie weiterhin die besten Kletterer anzieht. Allein die Versuche auf diesem Niveau sind schon eine starke Leistung.…
Ehrlich gesagt spricht mir dein Text aus der Seele, weil ich diesen Wandel am Fels in den letzten Jahren selbst…
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