Jernej Kruder nutzte zusammen mit Mirco Dell’Osta die heißen Tag um sich die Route „Pan-Aroma“ (XI-) mal näher anzuschauen. Bereits 2022 konnte Jernej die Route „Bellavista“ (XI-) imit dem gleichen Partner frei klettern.
„2 Sundays ago, I drove alone to Tre Cime to meet with my friend @mircodellosta , who was there with me last year, when I sent Bellavista. This time, my focus was on Panaroma, a harder version in this great roof of Cima ovest. It shares the same start with Bellavista to get to the roof and the first crux of the hard pitch before it turns to the right. I only tried this 50 meters long and 8b+ hard pitch on a short trip with @hannespuman , where I managed to do all the moves. To get from the anchor to anchor wasn’t easy. Although it’s bolted, you have to climb hard and commit between the bolts, or a long fall awaits for you.
Now, when I returned with Mirco, my expectations were low, but I also knew somewhere deep inside me that there was a small chance of doing it. We had no problems getting to the roof, and the conditions were very good for Tre Cime. I started climbing the roof, and soon, I was over the first crux. Still, 40 metres of climbing was in front of me, but my head was light, and I managed to control the pump in my forearms. Soon, I found myself on a belay . But the route is not finished here yet. Another 20 meters pitch, which, in my opinion, reaches the grade of 8a+/b (originally graded 8c) was upon me. I only tried it once with Much Mayr some weeks ago. Didn’t feel too hard, but also, I knew I’m not too fluid on it. Anyway, the hype was high, and I started to climb. On the first hard move, my foot slipped, and a second later, I was 10 meters below the bolt, hanging in the void. Jummared up, repeat the moves, took a rest, and I was back on it. Somehow, I got nervous on my second try, got super pumped, and ended up in the void for the second time. Now, I became nervous and couldn’t find the right mind to get back on track. After a short brake, I gave it all in, and with cramps in my arms, I managed to reach the anchor. I was tired AF, but luckily, the route was fairly easy to get to the top .
This route doesn’t get many repetitions, and sending it so fast means so much to me. I feel my mind is getting stronger on big walls, and I can’t wait to see what the future brings“
Das Dach an der Westlichen Zinne in den Sextener Dolomiten gehört sicherlich zu den markantesten Dächern im gesamten Alpenraum. Erstmals geklettert wurde das 40 Meter da von Gerhard Baur und den Brüdern Walter und Erich Rudolph in künstlicher Kletterei. Im 2007 war es dann Alexander Huber, der zwei Routen durch dieses Dach mit „Bellavista“ und eben Pan-Aroma“ erstbegehen konnte. Seit der Erstbegehung der Route vor 16 Jahren erlebte die Route erst sehr wenig Begehungen, unter anderem durch den Spanier Edu Marin und dem Polen Łukasz Dudek der das Ganze im Rope-Solo kletterte.
Siebe vanHee eröffnete dann im Jahr 2021 mit der Verknüpfung von „Pan-Aroma“ (8c) und „Project Fear“ (8a+) die Kingline durch das Dach der Westlichen Zinne und wertete „Pan Aroma“ auf 8b+ ab.