William „Will“ Bosi, now a profound connoisseur of Czech high-end boulders and also the first repeater of „Burden of Dreams„, attempted Adam Ondra’s previously unrepeated top boulder „Terranova“ (8C+). He was unsuccessful and had to make do with the boulder „Nova“, which extends the second (and easier) half of Adam Ondra’s boulder with a two-pitch sit start.
Last June, Czech climber Jana Švecová managed the first ascent of „Nova“ and graded the boulder as (8B). Will Bosi, who was able to climb „Nova“ last week, believes that it is actually a difficult 8C problem. In fact, it took Will six days before he was able to climb the boulder. It was, as he notes in the video below, more time than it has taken him for any of the other six 8Cs he has climbed in the Czech Republic so far.
This upgrade is significant in several ways. Firstly, it retroactively makes Švecová the first woman to climb an 8C boulder problem for the first time (although the extent to which it counts as a problem in its own right is debatable). Secondly, it has some impact on the difficulty of „Terranova“, as „Nova“ is the supposedly easier second half.
„without the send it’s hard to say but it’s roughly 6 moves of 8A/8B into 6 moves of 8C so it’s got to be at least hard 8C+ in my opinion” says Bosi.
This suggests that Adam Ondra was perhaps the first person to climb a 9A boulder for the first time, beating Nalle Hukkataival by a whole five years. Let’s wait and see about further ascents.
https://youtu.be/IIxlU0Boplc?si=EeTGYi_albu4VxDW
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Ich reiche hiermit die fehlende Quelle des Direktzitats nach: https://kayakandclimb.blogspot.com/2023/11/free-karma-on-half-dome.html?m=1
Please contact Tobias Wolf via https://kayakandclimb.blogspot.com/ Cheers Gabi
Hi ! well done for the FFA of Charliberté !! I'm looking for a really good picture of this area…