Dave MacLeod konnte mit „Mnemosyne“ (E9 6c) eine neue Trad-Route an der Nordwand des Ben Nevis erschliessen. Die Route forderte ihm vor allem psychisch alles ab.
Last week I did a new route on Ben Nevis, Mnemosyne, E9 6c. @ste_mcclure had mentioned it to me years ago, thanks Steve! Carn Dearg Buttress wasn’t somewhere I’d climbed on early on as I was exploring other bits of the north face. Anyway, it’s lovely climbing, atlhough it is pretty serious and as you saw in my previous post the skyhooks and screamers were out in force.
I posted up a video of it on my YouTube channel. In that I’ve tried to talk through the logistical approach I used to climb a route like this including the practicalities of arranging the gear and timing attempts as well as the psychological approach to make it feel more realistic and less terrifying. I hope it’s obvious that really honing in the tactics all adds up to a big difference and it’s what makes a route like this possible, for me at least.
One thing that always helps for a lead of such a serious bit of climbing is being out with good partners who are relaxed, but ‚know the score‘, if you will. In this case I was climbing with @robbiephillips_
These projects do rather weight on your mind. This one has for a couple of years. It’s not a bad thing. I like the pressure! But the contrast is also nice. I couldn’t really move on without finishing this project and now it’s nice to think about other possibilities for new routes to try next. #firstascent, #bennevis, #tradclimbing