Die US-Amerikanerinnen Michaela Kiersch und Paige Classen konnten sich eine Begehung des Klassikers „Dreamcatcher“ 9a im Klettergebiet Squamish in der kanadischer Provinz British Columbia sichern. Sie sind nun beide Mitglieder im noch recht exklusiven Klub der Kletterinnen, welche eine 9a-Route punkten konnten. Für Paige war es die dritte und für Michaela die erste 9a-Route.
Michaela probierte sich schon vor drei Jahren, Paige sogar schon sieben Jahre, in der Route. Nun konnten beide nach einer zwischenzeitlichen Pause wegen Schlechtwetters die Route punkten. Die sehr technische Route wurde 2005 von Chris Sharma erstbegangen und hat bisher nur wenige, bis dato, ausschließlich männliche Begehungen.
Paige meinte zu ihrer Begehung: Dreamcatcher. 9-2-21. I first tried this line 7 years ago. By the end of a month long trip, I could barely do each individual move, and could link only 2-3 moves together at most. I’ve spent the last 7 years becoming a different climber – trying to climb faster, more explosively, and with more confidence. I lifted weights and set sideways sloper campus simulators and rehearsed left heel hooks until I strained my hamstring. I came here not knowing what to expect. I wanted to do this route more than any route I’ve done, but also knew I’d be ok if I didn’t. After six sessions of progression, I walked up to the route on Thursday feeling distant from climbing in mind and body, but felt like rehearsing some new beta I’d found. As I left the ground, a group of people unexpectedly popped out of a hole in the ground just beneath the route. My mind was everywhere and nowhere. I climbed well to the final rest, stuck my highpoint, and then made a conscious decision to not let go. I think I tried the hardest I’ve ever tried in my life. What a weird day, but so happy to have found my passat on this dream line.
Thanks to my #1, @arjandekock for all his support + snapping these pics yesterday with @twincannons. Thanks to @eddiebauer for making this trip possible and to @lasportivana @physivantage and @maximropes @kiltergrips for always supporting my goals.
Michaela dazu: Dreamcatcher has been a dream of mine since @chris_sharma established the first ascent in 2005. Truthfully, for most of those years it felt out of reach. It still feels surreal.
I tried this route 3 years ago and couldn’t really do the moves consistently. Leading up to this trip, I focused on increasing my finger strength, endurance, and doing LOTS of sideways campusing. I was able to do all of the moves on my first day back and was excited to start piecing together bigger links. After a heavy rain, the route was a waterfall. I was stressed about the weather (classic Squamish) and doubted if I’d be able to send before heading back to school. On my 5th day, the holds were still a little seep-y. It alleviated some of the pressure and I decided to just have fun and go for it. Next thing I knew, I was clipping the chains of my first 5.14d/9a.
Dreamcatcher has seen relatively few ascents, all by men until this month. It was magical to share moments on the route with @paigeclaassen, and to feel so welcome to try my hardest alongside her. It feels empowering and momentous to add two female ascents to this climb.
I’m inspired to keep dreaming up bigger dreams and so thankful for the many opportunities and support I’ve had which has helped get me to this place.
Michaela konnte mit „Joe blau“ schon vor drei Jahren eine 8c+ -Route klettern. Die nur 1, 52 m große Michaela konnte aber schon mit „Crown of Aragorn“ und „Green in the Face“ zwei Boulder im Grad V13/8B toppen.