Buster Martin, neben Alex Megos, der einzige Kletterer welche beide Routen wiederholen konnte, wagte sich aus der Deckung und bewertet beide Routen mit [9a]. Ein bisschen Lokalpatriotismus schwingt da sicherlich mit, aber das er gleich das Bier in Manchester als besser als das fränkische Bier bezeichnet, geht dann wohl zu weit ;-).

Nach Meinung Adam Ondras und der letzten, meist britischen Begeher, könnte die Route die erste 9a der Welt gewesen sein. Alexander Megos, welcher auch beide Routen kennt, stufte Hubble allerdings als leichter ein. In Großbritannien selbst wird die mittlerweile meist mit 9a angegeben. Ob letztlich die Klettergeschichte umgeschrieben werden muss, sei dahin gestellt. Beides sind die herausragenden Routen ihrer Zeit und vom Kletterstil wohl nicht ganz vergleichbar.

A question asked a lot which I find a bit sad. 

I climbed AD and Hubble because they’re iconic routes with inspiring stories and heroes behind them—pure reasons, IMO, untainted by unnecessary comparison or numbers. If I hadn’t climbed 9a and wanted that tick or had more of a vested interest, I may feel differently about grades? 

I’m sponsored by Moon, I’m British, which could make some believe I’m biased but I’m indifferent to the grades.

AD was less of a challenge for me, I’m glad that was the case, I’d trained and progressed. 

AD is more accessible in style, decent holds, basic, and a power endurance style but more physically demanding. H is more specific and trickier, body positioning is critical, and the difficulties are more distilled. I climbed H after years of climbing in the peak, and don’t think I could have turned up and done it without experience on guns alone. That’s not to say it’s harder, I’d struggle to make that comparison.

Considering the objective data doesn’t help, H has fewer ascents, and those who have done both did AD in less time. Considering that location, style, conditions, and quality of routes probably influences this, there’s no case for one being harder than the other. Yet If both routes were next to each other, AD still would have seen more ascents, IMO.

I think H is 9a, as do the majority of ascentionists. Tbh with 1/3 of the ascents and a more mixed view there is less of a consensus but If AD is 9a then H has to be imo.

In the eyes and hearts of many AD will always be first, The grade of H shouldn’t take anything away from AD and its history.

There’s no argument that we can’t upgrade things in restrospect as this was the case with AD as consensus grew; Wolfgang gave it a grade equating to 8c+/9a.
I climbed both routes with an easier method or new equipment than the FAs and still think they’re 9a. That’s not me after a more significant grade for my scorecard; just an opinion and respect where it’s due.

Anyway, let’s see it…surely with a cheaty knee bar, H is a walk in the park. A flight from Bavaria to Manchester costs less than a round in the broadie, yes our beer is better as well.

In 2020, Buster Martin was able to make only his ninth ascent of the world’s first 8c+ routeHubble„. He also used a „kneepad„, which has become the subject of discussion, but which he says did not help him much. Last year, Buster got the 28th ascent of the Güllich classic „Action Directe“ on the Waldkopf in the Frankenjura.