A short time after Chiara Hanke, we reported that Gabriela Vrablikova was able to climb with the route „Sever the wicked hand“ (XI/9a) at the ‚Hängenden Stein‘ in the Pegnitz Valley in Northern Frankenjura her first route in this grade. Like her, last year she was able to climb the neighboring route „Battle Cat“ (XI-/XI or 8c+), which was also her first route in grade 8c+. Noteworthy is the delivery development, as „Gábina“ only had 8b as her personal best. Now she wants to try in the Alps on the legendary Mehrseillängentour „Silver Vulture (8b / X).

„There is an easy climbing in the corner at the beginning, then some harder moves, so so rest on better holds and then there is a boulder. According to the guys I have met it is about 8A boulder problem. Without any rest follows a section on small pockets. This part is already shared with the route Battle Cat. Before final boulder I found quite good crimps to shake out a bit. In the final problem I was a little lost and had to look for my way up as I did not climb it before so many times. I fought until the last move, even clipping the chain was not easy…“

 

https://youtu.be/LLylF8eoRpE