Sébastien Berthe climbs free the legendary „Nose“ at El Capitan in Yosemite. He started ground up and reached the exit with his partner Loic Debry after eight days.

The first ascent of the 1000-meter-long climbing route on El Capitan in the Yosemite Valley in California (USA) was one of the legendary races. Warren Harding and Mark Powell had just beaten by Royal Robbins at the first ascent of the northwest wall of the Half Dome. Now they were looking for a comparably outstanding goal. So they decided in the summer of 1957, enter the striking edge (The Nose) between the southeast and southwest wall of El Capitan. On November 12, 1958, Harding finally managed the first ascent with Wayne Merry, George Whitmore and Rich Calderwood in 47 days! with several attempts. His rival Royal Robbins then made the first repeat in just 7 days in 1960, along with Joe Flitchen, Chuck Pratt and Tom Frost.

In 1993, climbing history was written again. Originally not considered completely free climbing, Lynn Hill, accompanied by her partner Brooke Sandahl, was able to climb free the route on El Capitan. A year later, she was able to climb the entire route in a one day. Lynn Hills proposed the grad for the route 5.13b (X-), now considered solid (5.14a / X +). The free acsent of the Nose remained unrepeatable for five years despite numerous attempts by some of the best bigwall climbers in the world. It was not until 1998, Scott Burke the second free ascent. On October 16, 2005, Tom Caldwell was able to climb the route in less than twelve hours.

„A dream came true: I just free climbed THE NOSE in an 8-days ground-up push, partnered up with Loic Debry! I led all the pitches above 5.12a and we swapped leads on the easy pitches. The roof and the corners were climbed on preplaced gear.

Until the end, I wouldn’t have bet on my success, but I kept fighting: I even had to add two extra days as we had planned only 6 days on the wall. I got the Changing Corners beast on the last try that our food supplies allowed us.

This ascent was a real team work, thanks guys for the cheerings, belays, pictures, food and support… Without you I could never have finished this one: @debryloic, @a.eggermont, @babsizangerl, @florian_gourgue, @alexx4034, Chris, Lucas, @alanaaflor, @gillesdenisexpeditions, @nathan_goffart and so many others!

I have dreamt about this line since I was a child when my father told me about @_linacolina_ freeing it the year I was born. I feel so happy, relieved and thankful!

More details, pictures and stories to come! „

Foto: (c) Alex Eggermont