The young Swiss Giuliano Cameroni manages the 4th ascent of „Off the wagon low“ 8C+ in the Valle Bavona in Switzerland.
At the end of 2018 Shawn Raboutou extended the Nalle Hukkataival Boulder „Off the wagon“ (8B+) in Valle Bavona with sit start on the wagon. The move alone should check in at grade 8A. The result was probably the hardest boulder in Switzerland at the moment. Anyway, Shawn suggested 8C +. The grading is realistic, the original boulder already checked in at 8B +. Nalle has suggested in 2012 8C for the 13-move original boulder, but the repeaters downgraded it to 8B +. Just Giuliano moved the wagon and started stand on the same hold as the old sit.
„A true beauty and a very long 6 years process full of ups and downs.
After spending a certain amount of time under the same bloc new feelings start to appear: on one side you’re obviously frustrated, especially if you got very close, but on the other side there’s a deeper feeling of connection to the place and the rock, and it starts to become a little love story. You start to realize every detail of the boulder and how the grains and the quality of the rock exactly are. The day of the send, a sudden change happened: I was sitting underneath as always when I realized that I had a choice between having fun or desperately trying again. This realization put me in a great state of flow free of negative vibes and fear of failing. Right after I missed the final jug, which was my highpoint, and instead of getting mad I started laughing. I knew I was approaching the boulder the right way, so I stayed calm and happy. The next try I climbed it. Everything connected and all of the sudden I was standing on the top. A great sense of joy pervaded me and I remember wondering how it could happen so effortlessly when I had tried it for so long.
This boulder showed me that climbing can be much more than getting to the top and also more than the process with the goal of sending. Climbing is an expression of the deep connection between us and nature, between our soul and the stillness of the moment. It’s very similar to Yoga, that’s why the perfect motion is found in the present moment. Only here, when all our energies are focused on what we are doing, we can climb our best, we can feel what our body can do and what move works for it. In this timeless dimension we realize our true potential, we realize that we can climb harder than what seemed possible and therefore break the boundaries of our limits. We also realize that climbing is a form of meditation, a direct way to find zen, a bridge between the physical and the non-physical.
Off the Wagon (8C+) 4th ascent (after @shawnraboutou @jwebxl @dawoods89) or 1st ground ascent (Yes I moved the wagon and started stand on the same hold – just more beautiful imo).“
Genau, liebe Helga, weil dein Weltbild nicht zulässt, dass sich Gesellschaften und ihr Blick auf die Geschichte verändern und damit…
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Ich reiche hiermit die fehlende Quelle des Direktzitats nach: https://kayakandclimb.blogspot.com/2023/11/free-karma-on-half-dome.html?m=1
Please contact Tobias Wolf via https://kayakandclimb.blogspot.com/ Cheers Gabi
Hi ! well done for the FFA of Charliberté !! I'm looking for a really good picture of this area…