Alexander Megos replied to his Insta about Stefano Ghisolfi’s downgrading of the „Bibliographie“ to 9b +. He agrees Stefano’s downgrading. He himself was under great pressure from the „climbing world“ and spent 60 days on the route, which ultimately led him to the grading. But he didn’t feel really comfortable doing it. Also because he changes different beta’s and found it very difficult on this route.
What is the difference and how do you know which grade to give?
At the beginning I thought the number of days you invest in a climb is the best indicator of how hard it must be. Therefore I thought trying Bibliographie for 60 days must be harder than anything I’ve climbed before. When the word spread that I did the route people immediately started speculating.
I always had the feeling that 9c might not be the appropriate grade for the route, but I felt some pressure from the climbing world, which was already saying that it must be 9c if it took me 60 days.
I also didn’t have a very good feeling for the grade anymore in the end, because I simply changed my beta so many times, I had such long breaks on the route and I was struggling to compare it with other routes I did. I underestimated how much of a difference it makes to know you have the right beta. On Bibliographie I thought I had good beta until I came back a season later to completely change it again. And that happened twice. So in the end I probably spent the bigger part of 60 days figuring out beta, changing it again and not being sure that I can do it.
I became more and more convinced that it had to be harder than anything I’d ever done before.
When @steghiso and a few others started trying they found new beta for both cruxes. Both betas I hadn’t tried when I was working on the route. I asked myself how can that be? I spent so many hours on just a few square meters of rock, I should have seen every option. I realized at some point I was so convinced that I had the right beta, that I stopped trying other things. I of course touched the holds of the new beta, but I never actually tried 100% to see if it makes sense. Every time I changed beta on the route it was mainly because I couldn’t climb the previous beta. At a certain point I just decided that this will be the beta I’ll climb it with and I stopped trying new things. I did succeed in the end, but I have learned something for the future.
I’m so grateful for your honest opinion Stefano! I agree with 9b+ and now I’ll keep looking (with Stefano) for the next potential 9c.“