Simon Lorenzi sends the third repeat of the Swiss topboulder „“Alphane“ in the Swiss bouldering crag „Chironico “ in Ticino. Aidan Roberts got the first repeat of the top boulder „Alphane“ in October and confirmed the grade [9A]. This makes „Alphane“ the first confirmed 9A boulder in the world.

The boulder, an old project of Dave Graham, was successfully climbed by the strong US-American Shawn Raboutou, currently probably one of the strongest boulderers in the world, in April after about 25 sessions. „Alphane“ is the „Alphane Moon“ 8B+ boulder followed by nine hard moves in grade 8C.

So far, all 9A boulder climbs have been devalued by their repeaters. Only the unrepeated boulder „Burden of Dreams“ by Nalle Hukkataival, as the first boulder proposed for 9A, as well as „Return of the Sleepwalker“ by Daniel Woods are still resisting a repeat and thus have not yet been confirmed in grade 9A.

The Belgian Simon Lorenzi solved one of the very big and „last problems“ in Fontainebleau last year with a sit-start version of „The Big Island“. The boulder for which Simon originally also suggested [9A] was downgraded to 8C+ by Nico Pelorson. Second repeater Camille Coudert, however, confirmed the [9A].


Photo: (c) Gilles Charlier

Charles Charlier is a young director passionate about cinema but also about adventure, sport and nature. He likes to bring something new in sports videos: an aestheticism, a story, an emotion. His Passion is the key to his work.  He is always looking for new and exciting projects!