Sachi Amma meldet mit „Rise“ (9a+) eine 30 Meter lange Neutour in Shirakabe (Japan). Ursprünglich bohrte er eine direkte Linie mit 17 Haken ein, konnte diese aber nicht klettern, so dass er nach 7 Haken in die Route „Akirameruna“ abzweigen musste. Heraus kam trotzdem eine Route, für die er trotzdem noch 9a+ vorschlägt. Warten wir mal ab, wie schwer das Original wird, an dem er weiter projektiert.
Sachi zu Route bei www.8a.nu: „This route is in Shirakabe Face area, 30m long almost vertical with 16 bolts. I bolted original line this April but it was too difficult for me. So I made a connection to the route “Akirameruna” (No Surrender, from Kenji Iiyama 7c+). Original part is 7 bolts, about 20 moves of hard 8b+ then you directly go to a 4 moves 8A+ before continuing into “Akirameruna”. Crux move is from two micro crimps to far under cling. The wall is vertical so you need to be strong on your finger and sensitive for the movement.
I started working from ground from middle of October but kept falling at the crux move. After about 25days of working on it, I finally stuck that move on beautiful sunny, cold and windy day in this November 15th. It was beautiful days with Autumn leaves.
In Japanese, Kanji, Climb(登) and Rise(昇) are same pronunciation. We normally use Climb(登) for climbing. But I found that if you are really into the climbing, you are out of control by yourself. I think it is not climb but rise. This route taught me this. I would love to finish the original line in near future. So many things to climb in Japan!“