Der 25-jährige Italiener Stefano Carnati konnte sich jetzt die erst 5. Begehung von „Erebor“ holen. Für Stefano war es die erste Route in diesem Schwierigkeitsgrad.
So excited to make an ascent of this epic italian route in Arco which is now the hardest and most demanding climb I’ve accomplished!
Overall it’s been an unforgettable process! What made everything way more special was undoubtedly the fact that I could share most time with my mates @gabrimoroni and @_lucabana_ who I would like to thank so much for the great vibes. It doesn’t often happen to be able to attempt one of the hardest route around with other climbers, especially close friends! Someone might take it as read. It is not! Gladly it was an open process where everyone supported the others by sharing betas and suggestions in order to make small improvements and overcome the many defeats. As for myself I was always inspired by watching Gabry and Luca approaching the route! And I’m really looking forward to cheering in their next session(s) and trying something of this level together one day again soon.
The hardest part definitely involved maintaining the motivation high enough when the amount of time passing between each session was (at least) one week and progress was most times very slow.
But unless you get stuck by the repetitiveness of the actions, sometimes the weekend warrior mode has its pros. In this situation it definitely gave me time to recognize a better approach forward by analyzing every finest detail in such a way that I could work on my weaknesses during my training routine and possibly be gradually more complete. Since the climb was at my very limit, after each session I was always telling myself that every slightest thing I would improve was ok to keep the process on. Eventually the drive to be always there at the crag performing at my 100% won out! This is a kind of route where it is relatively easy to make rapid progress at the beginning, since it doesn’t involve any super hard single move. But being so incredibly resistant from the beginning, the true difficulty lies in linking each sections. Every tiny mistake on a move may hinder success on the subsequent. Indeed I was able to climb it split in two parts already after a short amount of time, but moving the highpoint up and up was extremely demanding.
Die Linie wurde von Stefano Ghisolfi im Jahr 2021 eingebohrt und erstbegangen. Stefano stufte die Route ganz vorsichtig mit 9b/+ ein, obwohl er sie um einiges schwerer fand. Die Wiederholer wie Jakob Schubert und Adam Ondra werteten die Route jedoch leicht auf 9b ab.
Die Route wurde im Jahr 2021 von Laura Rogora als erstes wiederholt, die damit als erste Frau in diesem Schwierigkeitsgrad 9b/+unterwegs gewesen wäre.
Aber Adam Ondra fand dann in der obersten Crux eine andere Sequenz als die von Stefano und Laura gefunden und schlug nach seiner Begehung nur eher 9b vor. Das Original-Beta war seiner Meinung schon 9b/+ .