Nach einer Begehung von „La Voie Petit“ (450m, 8b) am Grand Capucin konnte sich der starke Belgier Sébastien Berthe jetzt noch eine Begehung der 500 Meter langen „Bellavista“ (XI-/8c) in der Nordwand an der Westliche Zinnen (2.973 Meter) in den Dolomiten, Südtirol, Italien holen. Er kletterte die Route gleich am ersten Tag. Die Schlüsselseillänge konnte er im 2. Go klettern und wertete sie für sich auf 8b+ ab. Das dürfte nach Aussage des Erstbegehers Alex Huber einfach daran liegen, da die entscheidenden Griffe seit der Erstbegehung vergrößert wurden. Alle anderen Seillängen gelangen Sébastien Onsight.

Im Winter 2000 eröffnete Alex Huber die Route in vier Tagen allein und konnte sie dann am 18. Juli 2001 Rotpunkt geklettern. Die Route gilt als erster alpiner 11er in der Klettergeschichte.

„Woooaw, I can’t believe it! Yesterday, I could send „Bellavista“ on my first day on the route With David Leduc, we had all the week to work and hopefully send this beast… Well, It looks like we can spend the rest of the week, enjoying the pizza-icecream-italian-life .⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀
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Starting the day at 6 in the morning and finishing it at 9pm, it was busy climb!⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀
This route is a typical boldly Dolomite’s one and only rely on pegs (exept from the anchors where you can find good bolts) which make the whole climb really interesting.⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀
I could climb the 8b+ (original 8c) crux pitch on my second go, fininshing it completely pumped, shouting to hold on! This pitch is one of the craziest one I’ve ever climbed: 55m of traversing overhang and sustained climbing on good holds. Terribly exposed, if you fall, you find yourself at the end of the rope, in the middle of the void, far away from the wall. You better take a jumar with! One of the main challenge about this pitch is to go back to the belay anchor after your try I don’t think the pitch would be 8b+ on the ground, but the atmosphere around it make it very hard! Moreover, I must say, fixed draws and chalkmarks made it way easier.⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀
I led all the pitches until it joins the „Cassin“ where we swapped lead. I onsighted all of them exept the crux and the following 7c+ (where I fell at the second move before starting again and onsighting the rest of it).⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀
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It is so impressive to notice that @alexander_huberbuam opened it over a four-day period of solitary climbing in winter 1999! Then, he freeclimbed it in 2001, and he didn’t have thickmarks and fixed draws in the crux pitch… Bravo! Thank’s David for this day! I am so happy about my ‚multipitch flow‘ right now! What’s next?!“

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