Giani Clement mit Erstbegehung "Stil vor Talent" 8C/+

Giani Clement konnte jetzt sein Projekt im schweizerischen Bouldergebiet Magic Wood beenden. Er nannte den direkten Ausstieg zu „La grosse Tarlouze“ 8C „Stil vor Talent“ und bewertete ihn mit 8C /+ Ersteren Boulder konnte er letztes Jahr im November klettern. Der 36-Jährige Schweizer hat in den letzten drei Monaten fast ausschließlich an dem Projekt trainiert.

„So far my hardest #firstascent & boulder at the same time – if you can still talk about bouldering – because the line is more like a sport climbing route in terms of length & amount of moves.
With the FA of „SVT“ I’m fulfilling a huge dream – a dream that has been very present in my life over the past weeks.
I had a concrete plan & was very focused to follow it & implement it accordingly. I’m now super happy & very grateful that it worked out & that my dream line has become real.
I would like to say thank you everyone involved for their great support! You are the best!

The journey started already last autumn after my ascent of „LA GROSSE TARLOUZE“ FB 8C. IMO already a great line, logical by the fact that you get off the „NES“ 8B+ without a rope, on the easiest way – which is itself already a good challenge. The only point which I find disturbing is that you climb down after the big sloper-rail before you continue climbing towards top.

Because of this small disturbing factor the idea & vision was born to get out of the boulder on a more direct as well as harder way, which leads to an add. hard two move sequence – the crux of the whole boulder. An upturning, tension-intensive, shoulder move, from a perfect shaped pinch into the slopy roof, followed by a cool dyno to a big railsystem. This crux we succeeded in late autumn 2019, towards the end of the last #magicwood season. So the incentive was definitely created to dream of the line and to return as soon as possible.
However, a lot of patience was necessary to hold out until after the corona lock-down & the area re-opening. At the beginning of May 2020 I started to clean & debug the overhang & the slab above. I was quickly thrilled by the rock quality & the style, which is still challenging the psyche up to the top.
Persistence, a good balance between sharp attempts & training units depending on the weather conditions were key factors for the final success.
More details & insights in the process until the final ascent will follow shortly.“

Foto: (c) Hannes Kutza

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