Siebe Vanhee mit der 6. Begehung der "Unendlichen Geschichte" (X+/8b+)

 
 
„I almost can’t believe this! Second difficult multipitch in one week, after
“Parzival” in Alpstein. The Asturian food after celebrating “Orbayu” must have given me some kind of power! On Monday @michiwohlleben was so kind to join me on Unendliche Geschichte and left his own projects to the side. We had a great day despite the wet start and I managed to figure out all the sequences in every pitch. I could even sent the upper cruxpitch (pitch 6). Because my trip is coming to an end, bad weather was on its way and I looked close to send already on my first day, Michi put himself aside again and joined me on Wednesday for the send day!  I was more nervous then ever. I knew I could do it and I had a few obstacles; bad skin due to only 1 restday, possibly worse and warm conditions, time pressure due to bad weather. But anyhow, nothing to loose! Pitch 4, the 7c+, had a wet start so I needed a second go. Whereafter the two cruxpitches followed; 8b and 8b+. The 8b is a technical boulder with lots of tension on the feet, my foot slipped away after two moves. But also this pitch I could do straight away in the second go. The last cruxpitch went down first go. Five more typical #beatkammerlander pitches ahead of us; 6b/7a+/6b/7b+/7a+. Big fight in almost every one of them but at least no fall anymore. Another Kammerlander masterpiece, he did this in 1990, just incredible! This route is older then myself! I immediately noticed the cruxpitch (graded 8b+) felt more easy then this original grade. After the send I had a look at the movie of @babsizangerl and @ninacaprez which made it very clear to me a hold broke in the crux section. We can now grab one positive broken crimp with all four fingers and do a big move. It doesn’t feel right to call this the same route as when Beat, Pietro dal Pra, Babsi and Nina did it. I would suggest the grade 8b for this pitch now, which also brings the grade of the whole multipitch to 8b. Maybe important to inform that we didn’t brake anything.“

Story

Die Route Unendliche Geschichte (8b+, 11 Seillängen, 400m) an der 7. Kirchlispitze im Rätikon (Schweiz) wurde vor nun schon dreißig Jahren durch Beat Kammerlander eingerichtet und im Jahr 1991 dann erstmals frei geklettert. Es war damals eine der schwersten Mehrseillängenrouten in der Alpen überhapu. Erst im Jahr 2008 gelang dem Italiener Pietro dal Prà die erste Wiederholung der Route. Weitere sieben Jahre vergingen, bis die Route erneut wiederholt werden konnte. Diesmal war die wohl stärkste Frauenseilschaft mit Nina Caprez und Babsi Zangerl in der Route unterwegs und konnten sich die erst dritte und vierte Rotpunktbegehung der „Unendlichen Geschichte“ sichern.
 
 

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