Der derzeit beste italienische Kletterer Stefano Ghisolfi konnte sein derzeit wohl schwerstes Heimprojekt „Erebor“ im Gebiet Eremo di San Paolo bei Arco punkten und schlug für die Route den Grad 9b/ + vor. „Erebor“  dürfte so die  schwierigste in Italien sein. Mit der Bewertung dürfte Stefano kaum daneben liegen, immerhin hat er mit „The Change“ und „Perfecto Mundo“ zwei 9b+ Routen auf seinem Konto. Insgesamt liegt Stefano nun bei sieben Route im Grad 9b und schwerer.

Für die Route hat er bereits eine noch härtere Variante Projekt „The Lonely Mountain“ gebohrt. Man darf gespannt sein.

„It has been a crazy process, begun after the first lockdown, bolted with the help (and the drill) of @sevescassa and tried for the first time last June, I immediately realized it was nearly impossible. After summer I started trying some attempts but only in the new year I was able to clip the chain, after falling at the last moves more than 10 times.

In my opinion I never climbed in Italy something as hard as this route, but I still think it doesn’t reach the full 9b+ comparing it to Change or Perfecto Mundo. Therefore my grade suggestion is 9b/+ that makes it the hardest route in Italy and my proudest first ascent, and I’m looking forward someone will come and repeat it soon!

Last but not least, this is the „easier“ variant of the route, and I already bolted a much harder version. This is another story (but I already thought „The Lonely Mountain“ project would be a great name for that one.“

Foto: (c) Sara Grippo