Two decades after the first ascent of „Dreamtime“ in Cresciano in Switzerland, Giuliano Cameroni manages on the „Dreamtime“-Boulder another extremely hard boulder and ends his livetime project at this historic place. „Dreamtime“ was opened in 2000 by Fred Nicole as the first 8C-Boulder. The new boulder starts with the same sit start as „Dreamtime“, but then instead of going left, he goes straight up.
„REM“ is the second 8C + boulder of Giuliano within a few days of his first ascent from „Poison the Well“ in Brione (Ticino) It is the third 8C + Boulder in Switzerland and all three boulders were opened up within a very short time.
Giuliano: „REM and Poison the Well have first been tried by Dave Graham more than 10 years ago. I have never seen chalk on the REM holds, so I guess it hasn’t been tried in the last 5 years. I started trying REM in January and it took me 8 sessions to complete it. The key was the mental aspect: during the last four sessions I kept falling off the last hard move without any improvement. After that I decided to take a two weeks break from the boulder. Meanwhile, I was able to climb Poison the Well, which gave me a lot of confidence and motivation to complete REM as well. The night of the send I was positive and didn’t feel any pressure, which allowed me to execute perfectly. Definitely felt like I was climbing in a dream! Also, this whole boulder is hands down my favorite piece of rock and the one I learned the most from.“