Two decades after the first ascent of „Dreamtime“ in Cresciano in Switzerland, Giuliano Cameroni manages on the „Dreamtime“-Boulder another extremely hard boulder and ends his livetime project at this historic place. „Dreamtime“ was opened in 2000 by Fred Nicole as the first 8C-Boulder. The new boulder starts with the same sit start as „Dreamtime“, but then instead of going left, he goes straight up.
„REM“ is the second 8C + boulder of Giuliano within a few days of his first ascent from „Poison the Well“ in Brione (Ticino) It is the third 8C + Boulder in Switzerland and all three boulders were opened up within a very short time.
Giuliano: „REM and Poison the Well have first been tried by Dave Graham more than 10 years ago. I have never seen chalk on the REM holds, so I guess it hasn’t been tried in the last 5 years. I started trying REM in January and it took me 8 sessions to complete it. The key was the mental aspect: during the last four sessions I kept falling off the last hard move without any improvement. After that I decided to take a two weeks break from the boulder. Meanwhile, I was able to climb Poison the Well, which gave me a lot of confidence and motivation to complete REM as well. The night of the send I was positive and didn’t feel any pressure, which allowed me to execute perfectly. Definitely felt like I was climbing in a dream! Also, this whole boulder is hands down my favorite piece of rock and the one I learned the most from.“
Alma, jetzt bleib mal bei deiner Meinung und werd nicht gleich wankelmuetig weil sich die Elite bzw die sich dafür…
Ich glaube vom Schraubenkopf ist nur ein Foto im Buch aber eine Route wird dort nicht vorgestellt. In der Liste…
Vergleicht man mit der Tante oder der Kleinen Herkulessäule da stimmt das natürlich, aber im Vergleich mit dem Campanile Basso…
Der Bloßstock ist ja eher ein "Koloss" und keine Nadel... ;-) In der Sächsischen Schweiz sind die Tante und die…
Was für eine Leistung! Diese Monsterwand, die aus dem Almboden herauszuwachsen scheint, alleine zu durchklettern und das in dieser Zeit,…