The 21-year-old Spaniard Jorge Diaz-Rullo Calvo sends a top route again with rope after the freesolo by „Darwin Dixit“ (8b+).
Now he got the 3rd ascent of „Mejorando Imagen“ Spanish climbing area Margalef. The route was first climbed by Ramon Julian Puiblanque in 2013 and graded „only“ 9a in its typical understatement. Alex Megos manages the first repetition in March and suggested an upgrade by a full grade to 9b. Jorge Diaz-Rullo Calvo sees the route at so 9a+/ b.
„After a great fight with my skin I can send this fanatic route of one fingers pocket and two fingers pocket bolted by @hermanospou
With the first few tryes I thought I would do it quickly but then the truth that in each attempt I realized that something was not as easy as it seemed living from the ground. Then the psychological factor appeared when on my 5th day I failed in the last movement of the route with all my fingers bloody.
My next two days were very bad, I fell lower due to pain in the skin and minor mistakes. And yesterday, my 8th day on the road, after about 6 attempts falling at the start, when I least thought I was going to do it the try appeared
Regarding the level, I am not very good at graduating and even more complicated when the first ascens @ramonetjp proposed 9a?! and a few weeks ago the second ascens @alexandermegos suggested 9b. I thought that really for me it is closer to the opinion of Megos, but I do not know if it would become 9b, it could be 9a+/b although I do not rule out other opinions. Of course, it will be my hardest route without kneepads Repeaters will say!!
Thanks to everyone for the support and putting up with me in every attempt!
Jorge ist als einer der fleißigsten Wiederholer schwerster Routen im letztem Jahr bekannt, darunter auch die Route „El Bon Combat„, konnte sich Anfang des Jahres mit „Trinity“ auch einen der ganz schweren Boulder sichern. Es war sein ersten Boulder in diesem Grad.
Photo: (c) Paul Alonso Prat