Katharina Saurwein und Jorg Verhoeven klettern "Tainted Love" (8b/5.13d trad) in Squamish (British Colombia)

In der letzen Woche konnten Katharina Saurwein und Jorg Verhoeven mit „Tainted Love“ (8b/5.13d trad) im kanadischen Klettergebiet Squamish in British Colombia eine der schwersten Trad-Routen der Welt klettern. Für Katharina war es die erste Trad- Route in dieser Schwierigkeit. Erst im Mai diesen Jahres wurde die Route von Hazel Findlay erstbegangen. Dazu folgendes Video:

Katharina bei www.8a.nu: „I knew I wanted to try ‘Tainted love’ before coming here as this stemming corner with an almost closed crack in the corner and blank sidewalls, first ascended by Hazel Findlay looked stunning. It’s about fifteen to twenty meters high and is protected by small offset wires and one cam. At first both Jorg (Verhoeven, who also did it) and I had a hard time getting off the ground, we didn’t know how to move, how to position our body. From session to we got a better feeling for the open dihedral and at one point we both had our own beta worked out, which was actually quite different, due to our height difference. On our fourth session our goal was to get used to placing the gear, but as I started climbing it felt great, so I just kept on going. I was so focused on my climbing that I wasn’t really scared, and as I slowly made it higher and higher I found myself up top before realizing what had happened.“

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fotos: (c) Jon Glassberg

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