Video: Adam Ondra mit neuem Topboulder "Ledoborec" / "Just to get the perfect kneebar!" (8C+)

Nach „Brutal Boulder“ (8C+) kann Adam Ondra nun den nächsten Topboulder in seinem Heimatgebiet im Mährischen Karst (Moravský kras) klettern. Der Boulder „Ledoborec“ zu deutsch „Eisbrecher“ ist für einen Boulder mit 28 Zügen recht lang und ist eine Kombination verschiedener Boulder unter anderem „Iceberg“ (8C). Die Aneinanderreihung der Züge ist nur möglich, da „Mister Kneebar“, einen „Kneebar“ zum Ruhen verwendet.  Dies hat Adam ja bis zu Perfektion getrieben, man erinnere sich nur an seine und die weltschwerste Toproute „Silence“ (9c), welche ja auch nur du die so gewählten Ruhepunkte möglich wurde.

If you still haven’t seen the latest episode (link in bio), it features some of the hardest climbing I have ever done. Ledoborec (Icebreaker in English) is a 28 moves long boulder problem and could as well be graded 9b/b+ route. It links 8B boulder problem called Blatant, which is very tricky on some of the poorest and the most slippery holds I have ever seen, directly into 8C called Iceberg. The crux is the power endurance element of it, most notably the last 4 moves, that are only about 7C (possibly some of the easiest single moves on the whole problem), but they get really hard if you link it from the start.

The trick of sending the whole problem was the knee-bar. When I sent Iceberg 8C few weeks ago, I did use the knee-bar for some of the moves, but I did not use it for resting. I thought there was no way to release my hands. At first, it took me quite a few falls to release the hands even for 2 seconds. I thought it was necessary to release them for 5 seconds to have a chance of sending. Well, after 3 days of work, I ended up resting without my hands for 18 seconds! Quite a proof that „knee-baring“ is another skill you need for climbing. A skill that is trainable, that you should work on, that doesn’t come to you just by itself and lastly, that enables you to climb harder stuff.

Credits: Story by ADAM ONDRA CAMERA PAVEL KLEMENT LACO KORBEL LUKÁŠ STACH EDITED BY PAVEL KLEMENT PRODUCTION JAKUB PÍNA SUBTITLES BY JARKA MARČEKOVÁ EXECUTIVE PRODUCER PAVEL BLAŽEK SONGLIST Alejandro Del Pozo – Overcome and Improve Klaus Hergersheimer – Simmering Down Alejandro Del Pozo – Open Your Windows Klaus Hergersheimer – Mayday Love Orchestral Manoeuvres – Written In These Stars Dr. Hollywood – Sunrise Violet © 2020 AO PRODUCTION S.R.O.

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