Alexander Megos klettert "Lichtjahre" (8c+) und flasht "Underground" (8c+)

Ok, 8c+ ist nicht 9c, aber es spricht auch ein bisschen für die harten Bewertungen am Schleier Wasserfall. „Erst“ nach 3 Versuchen ergab sich die Route „Lichtjahre“ von Markus Bendler dem jungen Deutschen. Alex wertete die Route auch auf hart 8c+ auf. Man muss aber dazu noch erwähnen, dass die route seit einem Griffausbruch keine Begehung mehr bekommen hatte.

„Had a great day at Schleier Wasserfall yesterday with @dickikorb, @michaelmeisl and the team of @wilder.kaiser! After doing some amazing moderate pitches I had a look at „Lichtjahre“ which according to Markus Bendler didn’t have an ascent after a few things broke. I could do it third try and I’d say it’s around upper end 8c+. Thank you very much @wilder.kaiser for the hospitality and the good times! I will be back again soon. There are still many things to climb.“

Fotos: (c) Michael Meisl  

Danach ging es weiter nach nach Arco, wo Alex die Route „Underground“ (8c+) in Massone im „Flash“-Modus klettern konnte. Das „perfekte Beta“ dafür gab ihm Cesar Brosso. Alex wertete die Route spontan nach seinem Flash auf 8c+ ab.

„I did many trips to Arco but I was always saving this one for a potential flash try. I thought maybe I would feel ready one day. Turns out sometimes you just have to go for it! After doing „Claudio Caffè“ second try this morning I thought I might as well just go for Underground today. Big thank you to @cesar_grosso for giving me perfect beta and showing me all the moves and to @dickikorb for standing in that hole to belay us.“

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I did many trips to Arco but I was always saving this one for a potential flash try. I thought maybe I would feel ready one day. Turns out sometimes you just have to go for it! After doing "Claudio Caffè" second try this morning I thought I might as well just go for Underground today. Big thank you to @cesar_grosso for giving me perfect beta and showing me all the moves and to @dickikorb for standing in that hole to belay us. 🙏🏼 Here the last crux of the route on camera. Unfortunately we didn't film the whole send… 😔 @patagonia_climb @redbullgermany @goretexeu @tenayaclimbing @cafekraft_nuernberg @dmm_wales @sterlingrope @frictionlabs @fazabrushes #stylefirst #carrotsforpower

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