Jernej Kruder, seines Zeichens wohl einer der besten Allrounder, konnte jetzt ein Langzeitprojekt beenden. Mit „Ellipsis“ 8b+ (7b+,7a+,8a,8b+,7c) gelang ihm eine der schwersten Mehrseillängenrouten in den östlichen Alpen. Die 200 Meter lange Route befindet sich in den Venzianischen Alpen nahe der slowenischen Grenze.
„The Story begins back in 2018 when I teamed up with strong and visionary guys @pinticlimbs and @slod4ve . They saw a nice looking line in a steep 200 meters wall of Bila pec. They didn’t know how difficult and challenging it can be, but they were sure it’s not going to be save or possible without bolts. They took the alpine gear and I took the bolts and drilling tool for 3 days of work. We spent 26 (+2 additional ones) bolts including anchors and some pitons.
Route seemed very challenging and I needed 2 years to find courage to come back. After 3 days of work, I came back with @urhprimozic on very good, dry conditions. First 3 pitches (7b+, 7a+ and 8a) went down pretty easy, but still I wasn’t sure about 4th, hardest pitch. I gave it a go and I failed. I failed because on previous tries I was mentally and physically too tired to figure out the moves properly. This time I found perfect beta and sent it second go . I still had time to finish the last 7c pitch on which I was also missing a move. I must say, I fought the most in this one, but got lucky enough I didn’t fall. This was my longest big wall project, and I’m very proud I can call it a first ascent. @pinticlimbs @slod4ve @urhprimozic @sonilmose thanks again for this beautiful story!!!“
Foto: Mark Grmek