Jérémy Bonder kann sich die 3. Begehung bzw. zweite Begehung nach dem Griffausbruch des Boulders „Satan i Helvete Low“ holen. Der Boulder wurde von Dave Graham als Stehstart erstbegangen. Später fügte Seb Frigault einen Tiefstart hinzu. Dieses Jahr im Mai holte sich die 15-jährige Französin Oriane Bertone dann eine Begehung des Boulders in Fontainebleau. Es war die erste Begehung nach einem Griffausbruch. Oriane schlug für den Boulder den Grad 8C vor, welches Jérémy jetzt bestätigte .
„I started doing sessions in this block after Oriane Bertone’s series in May. I have always found this insane boulder with a big, imposing cant. It was difficult for me to do the Alban Levier method, so when Oriane found a new method it immediately motivated me to come and try it.
I must have done 6 to 10 sessions between May and July. In June, I managed to make the start standing in 8B +. From there I started to put down trials but the heat didn’t make it any easier and even going very early it was already over 25 ° C by 8am. My sessions could end after only 4/5 tries because with the heat, I cut my right index finger very quickly!
I would say this boulder is one of the most technical I have ever done. As you can see, you need to have good grip, but not only that, you also need to be flexible and very precise in your climbs. Everything is played out in the micro-details: placement of the heel to the millimeter, placement of the fingers in the lock to perfection … Otherwise, impossible to make the next movement. This is all that makes you feel good in practice or on the contrary to have the impression that it is impossible.
This Wednesday, after a 1.5 month break in this block, I’m going back without any wait. The temperatures have come down well compared to July. In a few tries I manage to start again standing up and after 2 more tries I do it! It’s always nice to be rewarded for your effort and time spent.
Regarding the coast is it 8C? It’s not the hardest 8C I’ve been able to do, but it matches my physical qualities in every way: arches, an open pelvis, feet in the teeth, so hard to say. See what other repeaters will say …
Now it’s time for other forest projects, but I admit that I have not yet chosen what to invest in. The priority is to come to the end of „Super Crackinette“ 9a + in Saint Leger where I will be returning in October until the competition season resumes!“