Seb Bouin kämpft weiter um den Grad 9b+. Jetzt gelang es ihm mit „Beyond integral“ 9b/+ wieder ein 50 Meter Ausdauerhammer im Zwischengrad 9b/+ erstzubegehen. Er stuft seine Neutour in der Nordwand des Pic Saint Loup genauso schwer wie „Move“ or „La rage d’Adam“ ein. Die Route eine Verlängerung seiner Route „Beyond“ im Grad 9a+ an derem Ende dann eine harte 8A+ Boulderstelle folgt . Eingebohrt wurde die Route von Fredric Ferraro. Quasi als Zugabe konnte er noch „Terra Nova“ 8c+ erstbegehen. Ebenso eingebohrt von Fredric Ferraro.
After days and days on the top of the north face of the Pic Saint Loup mountain, I am more than happy to make last Tuesday the FA of „Beyond integral“ 9b/+ bolted by Fedric Ferraro.
I can’t count how many times I went on the upper section trying to find a sequence. That’s the FA privilege. This place means a lot to me. It’s super cool to climb on the top of this beautiful mountain, dominating the valley.
„This 50 meters route is composed of two parts : a first 9a+ followed by a 8a+ boulder problem. The moves are amazing and spectacular, jumps, dropknees, hills, tuffas, crimps,… all the ingredients for a perfect project. There is a good rest between both parts.
About the grade, it’s hard to have a clear mind and to prononce myself. I spent a lot of time to find the sequences. I think this route is on the same range than „Move“ or „La rage d’Adam“. That’s why I propose 9b/+. Waiting for some climbers to try this piece
I also did the FA of „Terra Nova“ 8c+ bolted by Fedric Ferraro. It’s a nice line with a spicy end .
Thank you Fed to add new lines there .
This experience was special. At the beginning I thought I will not find the adventure I can find on a trip on a new area.
Then, when I was involved in the process, I lived fully the adventure around my house. It was maybe more intense than a trip process. I rediscovered the Pic Saint Loup sector as it was a new crag. I enjoyed the walk to reach the top of that mountain. I rediscovered the warm up routes, and I was thinking of bolting new routes.
There is always new adventures to live, even if you know really well the place.
The video is coming in 2021, stay tuned“
Bilder: (c) Raphael Fourau
Ruhe in Frieden Micha. Wir hatten eine schöne Zeit Bruno
Danke!
Nur zur Info für Wiederholer der "Plaisierchen": Wir sind sie gestern (30.07.2023) geklettert, alle Haken sind wie in den Topos…
Nur zur Info für Kletterer, die diese Tour gehen möchten: Bei deiner Begehung heute (30.07.2023) waren alle im Topo eingezeichneten…
Hallo Petra, unser tiefempfundenes Beileid.