Schon im März gelang der deutschen Kletterin Lara Neumeier die vierte Wiederholung und die erste Damenbegehung der Trad-Route „Psychogramm“ an der Bürser Platte in Vorarlberg.

Lara verbrachte insgesamt sieben Tage damit, die Route im „Head-Point“-Stil zu klettern, bevor sie am 5. März endlich ihren ersten Vorstiegsversuch wagte und die Route gleich beim ersten Versuch punkten konnte. Lara platzierte ihre gesamte Sicherung „bottom up“ im Vorstieg, wie es mittlerweile bei „gezählten“ Trad-Begehungen üblich ist.

Die Route, die von dem einheimischen Kletterer Alex Luger im Jahr 2014 erstbegangen wurde, kann nur mit mobilen Sicherungsmitteln abgesichert werden. Alex hatte die Route ursprünglich mit dem Schwierigkeitsgrad 8b+/X+ eingestuft, wird jetzt jedoch einen Kick leicht mit X/X+ bewertet.

Die Trad-Route „Psychogramm“ befindet sich links der berühmten Beat Kammerlander Route „Prinzip Hoffnung“ und ist ähnlich schwer, aber psychisch noch anspruchsvoller.

Lara dazu: Psychogramm (8b) at Bürser Platte – a route where the name says it all. Technically demanding, mentally challenging and with micro-gear as protection: a real challenge.

The idea of climbing this route has been on my mind since I spoke to Michi Wohlleben about it last fall. Despite its intimidating reputation and its few ascents, I made my way to Bürser Platte mid of January to give it a try.

It was a cold day, the conditions weren’t ideal – but I was able to find a beta for the crux move, which I was very happy about as it is known as a reachy move. I was motivated but decided to come back with warmer temperature.

I returned to Bürser Platte at the end of February. It was much warmer, the sun was higher and the rock heated up during the day, limiting the climbing window to an hour or two in the evening shade. In the warmer conditions, the crux felt extremely hard and I only managed to stick to the move on one out of ten tries. Small and sharp crimps,
micro footholds and only few placements consisting of micronuts made it spicy, scary and made me doubt: was it really possible to climb the route safely? Was it worth the risk?

But, I kept trying it. On day four, I managed to send it on toprope, on day five I checked the gear and ordered a few more micro nuts. On day six, I managed to send it on toprope while placing the gear. After that, I felt ready to lead.

The night before my first lead attempt, Jacopo and I went through the pictures and footage of his ascent, and Jacopo gave me some of the micronuts he had placed at the time. The next day, I went up the static rope once.

Fotos: (c) Jacopo Larcher