The hardest Trad-routes in the world
We have finally managed to compile a list of the world’s toughest trad routes. Of course, this still needs to be supplemented and corrected. So please come with your notes and corrections.
Probably the most difficult route in this list is “Tripe” by Jacopo Larcher, which was only started last year. The difficulty is still unconfirmed, but the suggestion comes from Adam Ondra. The oldest route on this list is from Ron Kauk. He climbed the “Magic Line” route in 1996 with preplaced gears. In 2018, his son Lonnie Kauk was able to remove this “flaw”. The currently most repeated route is the “Cobra Crack” in the Canadian climbing area Squamish with 13 ascents. The route was first ascented by Sonnie Trotter in 2006.
The list shows all trad routes from grade 8b+/X+. The route “Prinzip Hoffnung” route an little exception. The route deserves it because of its historical importance. Most trad routes are “traditional” on the American continent. In Europe, apart from the British Isles, there are likely to be a few more pearls.
| Route | Grad | Massiv | Erstbegehungsjahr | Land | Begeher |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Das große Knübbeln | 8b+ | Pfalz | 2014 | Deutschland | Felix Lehmann |
| Direquiem | 8b+ | Dumbarton Rock | 2010 | Großbritannien | Sonnie Trotter |
| Echo Wall | 8c | Ben Nevis | 2012 | Großbritannien | Dave MacLeod |
| Longhope Direct | 8b+ | St. John's Head | 2011 | Großbritannien | Dave MacLeod, James McHaffie, Ben Bransby |
| Rhapsody | 8c+ | Dumbarton Rock | 2006 | Großbritannien | Dave MacLeod, Sonnie Trotter, Steve McClure, James Pearson, Jacopo Larcher |
| Tribe | 9a+? | Cadarese | 2019 | Italien | Jacopo Larcher |
| Lapoterapia | 8c | Osso | 2015 | Italien | Jacopo Larcher |
| Pura Pura | 8c+ | Valle dell'Orco | 2014 | Italien | Tom Randall |
| Cobra Crack | 8c | Squamish | 2006 | Kanada | Sonnie Trotter, Nico Favresse, Ethan Pringle, Matt Segal, Will Stanhope, Yuji Hirayama, Alex Honnold, Pete Whittaker, Tom Randall, Ben Harnden, Mason Earle, Logan Barber, Said Belhaj |
| Family Man | 8c | Skaha | 2014 | Kanada | Sonnie Trotter, Ben Harnden |
| La Zébrée | 8b+ | Mont-King | 2007 | Kanada | Jean-Pierre Ouellet, Sylvain Masse |
| Sugar Daddy | 8b+ | Squamish | 2010 | Kanada | Sonnie Trotter, Ben Harnden |
| The Path | 8b+ | Lake Louise | 2012 | Kanada | Sonnie Trotter, Ethan Pringle, Miles Adamson, Matt Wilder, Peter Kamitses, Tommy Caldwell, Read Macadam, Tim Emmett, Doug McConnell, Babsi Zangerl, Jonathan Siegrist, Jacopo Larcher, Alexander Megos |
| Tom Egan Memorial Route | 8c | Bugaboos | 2015 | Kanada | Will Stanhope |
| Recovery Drink | 8c+ | Jossingford | 2013 | Norwegen | Nico Favresse, Daniel Jung, Pete Whittaker |
| Prinzip Hoffnung | 8b/+ | Bürser Platte | 2009 | Österreich | Beat Kammerlander, Alex Luger, Jacopo Larcher, Fabi Buhl, Babsi Zangerl, Michael Gunsilius, Christian Bindhammer, Nemuel Feurle, Michi Wohlleben und Nadine Wallner |
| Psychogramm | 8b+ | Bürser Platte | 2018 | Österreich | Alex Luger, Fabi Buhl, Jacopo Larcher, Michi Wohlleben |
| Leve Leve | 8b+ | Pico Cão Grande | 2018 | São Tomé and Príncipe | Iker Pou, Enoko Pou |
| Blackbeard's Tears | 8c+ | Redwood Coast | 2016 | USA | Ethan Pringle |
| La Voyage | 8c | Chambre du Roi -Annot | 2017 | Frankreich | James Pearson |
| Power Ranger | 8b+ | Sunset Rocks - Chattanooga | 2017 | USA | James Pearson |
| Black Mamba | 8c | Utah | 2019 | USA | Tom Randall, Pete Whittaker |
| Brozone | 8c | Shawangunks | 2016 | USA | Andy Salo, Sam Elias |
| Century Crack | 8c | Canyonlands | 2016 | USA | Tom Randall, Pete Whittaker, Danny Parker, Molly Mitchell |
| China Doll | 8b+ | Boulder Canyon | 2017 | USA | Mike Patz, Matt Segal, Ethan Pringle, Joe Mills, Heather Weidner |
| Dihedron | 8b+ | Joshua Tree | 1997 | USA | Randy Leavitt |
| East Coast Fist Bump | 8b+ | Oak Creek Canyon | 2015 | USA | Joel Unema |
| Enter the Dragon | 8b+ | The Fins | 2012 | USA | Jonathan Siegrist |
| Father's Day | 8b+ | Donner Summit | 2014 | USA | Alan Moore, Nico Favresse, Urs Moosmuller |
| Full Dunn-Westbay | 8b+ | The Diamond | 2013 | USA | Tommy Caldwell, Joe Mills, Jonathan Siegrist |
| Ill Fire | 8b+ | Adirondacks | 2011 | USA | Peter Kamitses |
| Iron Monkey | 8b+ | Eldorado Canyon | 2008 | USA | Matt Segal, Ethan Pringle, Brian Kim |
| Magic Line | 8c/+ | Yosemite | 1996/2018 | USA | Ron Kauk*, Lonnie Kauk, Hazel findlay |
| Magic Mushroom | 8b+ | Yosemite | 2012 | USA | Tommy Caldwell, Justen Sjong, Babsi Zangerl, Jacopo Larcher |
| Meltdown | 8c+ | Yosemite | 2008 | USA | Beth Rodden, Carlo Traversi |
| Oppositional Defiance Disorder | 8b+ | Adirondacks | 2011 | USA | Peter Kamitses |
| Ozone | 8b+ | Shawangunks | 2016 | USA | Cody Sims, Peter Kamitses, Andy Salo |
| Planet Claire | 8b+ | Shawangunks | 2015 | USA | Scott Franklin, Char Fetterolf, Andy Salo |
| Proper Soul | 8b+ | New River Gorge | 2011 | USA | Brent Perkins |
| Pure Pressure | 8b+ | Escalante Canyon | 2016 | USA | Ben Rueck |
| Sewer Rat | 8b+ | Sundown Ledge | 2009 | USA | Dave Sharratt |
| Silently Does the Sun Shine | 8b+ | Red River Gorge | 2012 | USA | Andrew Gearing |
| South Face (Washington Column) | 8b+ | Yosemite | 2011 | USA | Matt Wilder |
| Stranger Than Fiction | 8b+ | Moab | 2015 | USA | Mason Earle |
| The Almighty | 8b+/c | Teton Canyon | 2012 | USA | Ty Mack, Jonathan Siegrist |
| The Bull | 8c | Squamish | 2013 | USA | Jeremy Smith, Ben Harnden |
Hallo
vielleicht wär es gut nur den FA hin zu schreiben oder noch mal einiges nachbesseren:
Magic Line: hazel findlay
Recovery Drink: Pete Whittaker
Tom Randall und Pete Whittaker melden Erstbegehung “Black Mamba” (5.14b R/8c)
Prinzip Hoffnung:
Lena Marie Müller und Johannes Ingrisch Madeleine “Maddy” Cope mit der 9. Begehung Nadine Wallner holt sich die 8. Michi Wohlleben gelingt die 8. beides von dieser Seite 😉
China Doll:
Molly Mitchell
The Path:
Alexander Megos flashes The Path
Psychogramm:
Michi Wohlleben
Danke für die Hinweise. Vieles findet man euch hier. Wir finden die Wiederholungen auch recht spannend, deswegen haben wir sie dabei.
https://kletterblock.de/de_DE/2018/08/daniel-jung-repeats-the-recovery-drink-8c-trad/