Nils Favre und Siebe Vanhee with the 3rd and the 4th ascent 'Parzival' (8b)

The Swiss Nils Favre and the Belgian Siebe Vanhee have teamed up and got the 2nd and 3rd repetitions of the Parzival route (8b, 6SL, 150 meters) at the Dreifaltigkeit (Alpstein) in Switzerland. The German Michi Wohlleben sends the first repetition and first red point ascent in 2017.

Upon arrival last week in Switzerland I was desperately searching for a climbing partner. Thanks to @nilsfavre we spent two amazing days in Alpstein, Appenzell region. After only one day of checking out all the pitches, we both made a free ascent of ‘Parzival’. We knew about this multipitch of @michiwohlleben , who made the first free ascent in 2016. Thanks to Michi for all the info.

At first sight I aimed to make a one-day ascent, but only after the first pitch I realised it wasn’t my day. I decided to let go of some self-pressure and we both just went to the summit switching leads and checking out the moves.

Day two on the route, we both wanted to send the route so decided we could switch leads the two first pitches (7a+/b & 7b) and both lead pitch 3 (7c+), 4 (8a+/b, morphological) and 5 (7c). After some desperate climbing in the first three pitches, the crux pitch seemed even more desperate with little skin and 28°C on a south face in the sun! But somehow I knew I made a good chance. I managed to pass the crux right away and send the pitch in my first go. Now Nils still had to give it all. Because of some bad skin and a painful shoulder, Nils had to make several tries. But we had all day so no pressure. All the sudden he easily climbed trough the crux towards the anchor. What an amazing send day in great company, I’m really impressed we could both do it on our second climbing day in this crazy heat. Thanks Nils for the good vibes. Last minute we had some company of Remo Schläpfer of @lacruxmagazin who took some great pics and did some filming. Glad you made it for this double ascent Remo!”

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