Sean Bailey repeat the route „Bibliographie“ in the French climbing crag „Ceüse“ as the second climber. For Sean was it the first route in this grade. After Adam Ondra, Chris Sharma, Alex Megos, Stefano Ghisolfi, Jakob Schubert and perhaps William Bosi, he was only the sixth / seventh climber in the world who succeeded in this. With the legendary route „Biographie/ Realization“, the American only has a route in grade 9a + on his account.
The 35 m long route was bolted in 2009 by Ethan Pringle and is located in the „Biographie“ sector, which also located the legendary route of the same name and was climbed by German Alex Megos last year. After all, it took him 60 days, spread over a few years, until he redpointed the route and grading the route with „9c“.
„I sent Bibliographie! Easily the hardest battle I’ve waged with myself. I’ve never been so obsessed. I woke up thinking about the route. I fell asleep thinking about the route. It was nonstop. I was lucky to get through the middle crux pretty quick but proceeded to pump off the final boulder 12 or something times. Every time I was so blown I needed a rest day, so essentially I was getting one try every two days. It felt like I was resting more than climbing. I spent a lot of time questioning why I was putting myself through it. I knew I could train for it, come back another year with the right fitness and a fresher mind and probably have an easier time at it. In the end I realized I needed to see this process through just as much as I needed to send, I’m glad I did! It taught me so much about the process. I spend a lot of time trying to make things happen, but sometimes you have to let things happen too. Thanks for the pic, hanging and documenting @neilson.ben.
Photo: (c) Ben Neilson