Nach einer Begehung von „Dreamtime“ (8B+/C) konnte sich nun auch Alex Megos eine Begehung des weiteren Schweizer Boulderklassikers „The Story of Two Worlds“ (8C) holen. Ohne die Verwendung von Kneepads geklettert, konnte sich Alex die nun schon 27.! Begehung des Boulders sichern. Alex verzichtete bewußt auf „Kneepads“ und machte sich nach seiner Begehung einige Gedanken über das „Wie“ von Begehungen. Sprich er meint, dass  über die Art und Weise einer Begehung viel mehr kommuniziert werden sollte, um zum Beispiel auch die Leistung des Erstbegehers zu würdigen:

„Short but great trip to Ticino with @yannick_flohe and @hungrylatvian came to an end. After doing Dreamtime, I set my sights on the famous @dave_graham_ test piece „The Story of Two Worlds“ on the other side of the boulder. There are various videos online from lots of different climbers, all theoretically climbing the same boulder and claiming the same grade- 8C. It seems like the climbing community is not differentiating at all and rarely mentioning HOW things are climbed. This issue was recently brought to my attention after the discussion about @yannick_flohe ’s „dab“ on Dreamtime. Climbing and especially bouldering is all about the HOW. Even more surprising though was the fact that people don’t really seem to care too much about the HOW, although it is supposed to be the most important part of climbing/bouldering in some people’s eyes.
After watching all those videos of „The Story of two Worlds“, I noticed there are huge differences. Some use a kneepad, although the FA was done without. Most sit down to start, some don’t. One climber (@dai_koyamada) started lower than all the others and didn’t use a kneepad. And in the end they all climbed the same 8C? That thought seems very alienating to me.
Yes, climbing is a funny sport and it’s not only about getting to the top. It’s HOW you get to the top. I would wish for more awareness within the climbing community, that there are differences in ethics, styles and grades. We, as climbers, should be more open about it and communicate HOW we have done certain climbs. Ticking a grade shouldn’t be the most important part of climbing. Climbing is so much more than that.
There are differences in HOW things get climbed and we should acknowledge those.
Glad I managed an ascent of „The Story of two Worlds“ on my last day. I valued climbing it without a kneepad and I did (barely). I’d say 8C seems about right. A little too much fridge hugging for my taste though.“

Ob dies auch ein Seitenhieb gegen Adam Ondra ist, der sich trotz „Kneepads“ vergeblich in Alex seiner Erstbegehung „Perfecto Mundo“ (9b+) versuchte, sei mal dahingestellt.

Dieses Jahr konnte Alex neben der wohl alles überragenden Erstbegehung von „Bibliographie“ vor allem zuhause im Frankenjura einige starke Boulderakzente setzen. Neben  der zweiten Begehung von Half Life“ (8C) konnte er noch „„Upgrade U“ (8C)“ erstbegehen. Dem wohl, nach der Zerstörung von „Gossip“, wohl schwersten Boulder im Fränkischen.

Foto: (c) Alise Zvigule