Video: Dave Graham punktet "Ali Hulk Sit Start Extension Total" 9b

Nun konnte auch Dave Graham den Sitzstart der Boulder/Route „Ali Hulk Sit Start Extension Total“ im spanischen Klettergebiet  Rodellar klettern und seine erste 9b-Route punkten. Es war außerdem die 4. Begehung der Boulder/Kletterroute. Zuvor war Dave dort schon mit der ersten Wiederholung von Jorge Diaz Calvo Rullos Variation „Fin de Alí Hulk extension sit start“ (9a+) erfolgreich. Für eine der besten Boulderer sicherlich ein geeignetzes Gelände. Dave sieht in der Höhle durc eine Variation der der Einsteigsboulder noch Potential für mehr. Für Dave war es seine erste 9b-Route und gleichzeitig die fünfte Route im Grad 9a+ und mehr.

Schon 2007 konnte Dani Andrada die Route „Ali Hulk Sit Start Extension“ 9b klettern. Diese Variante wurde nur von Magnus Midtbø wiederholt. Dann fügte Jonathan Flor letztes Jahr der Route 15 Züge und das „Total“ hinzu, wobei die Bewertung beibehalten wurde. Diese Variante haben Jorge Diaz-Rullo Calvo, Dani Fuertes und Laura Rogora haben es zuvor wiederholt. Insgesamt hat die Hybrid-Boulderroute über 100 Züge und man braucht aufgrund mehrerer guter Rastpunkte etwa 20 Minuten zum Klettern.

„Ali Hulk Sit Start Extension Total [9B] Last Tuesday I finally managed to climb the full line of the Ali Hulk Cave, a futuristic vision from one of my biggest inspirations in climbing, @dani_andrada_climb  During the extreme heat of the deep summer I spent most of my sessions crafting methods; most of which I changed multiple times afterwards, seemingly climbing in circles for months until I actually came up with a 130 move sequence which I felt confident with. The first half of the roof is very bouldery, where as the second half is more endurance oriented. The day it went down I had zero expectations to climb it It was one of the last hot days we had, particularly humid, and not a lot of wind, I was tired from trying No Pain the day before, and had some nagging splits that needed tape, so I sat myself down at the start whimsically for a good old training burn, planning to fall at the first crux. Somehow, I managed to cross the roof, but was savagely pumped and nearly fell off getting into the rest position From there I declared I would fall immediately I couldn’t shake the pump so I decided to just keep it movin, engaging myself in a brutal battle to get through the more physical Hulk section, and landing myself at the next rest with a near terminal pump in my entire body. I bailed again on the rest as my legs began to fail me in the kneebars, wanted to fall (honestly) as the pain in my feet was goin over the “threshold”, prayed I would maybe slip off in order to relieve the burn, yet somehow kept doing “one more move” (the mantra) until I made it through the Extension portion. This is where I got nervous. It was time not to punt I hung in the last shitty rest rapidly shaking either arm preparing for the past section of real resistance, and launched Move by move I executed my beta, completely focused, only until the last move of the route. I rocked over my foot, locked of, assuming I would pitch, reached for the last jug, and BOOM. Summit I couldn’t believe what happened, still can’t One of my most memorable and rewarding ascents in my life Uncut coming @mellowclimbing @adidasterrex @fiveten_official @petzl_official“

Video: mellow

Schreibe einen Kommentar

Deine E-Mail-Adresse wird nicht veröffentlicht. Erforderliche Felder sind mit * markiert.

Diese Website verwendet Akismet, um Spam zu reduzieren. Erfahre mehr darüber, wie deine Kommentardaten verarbeitet werden.

Social media & sharing icons powered by UltimatelySocial