„A day after the comp in Briançon we were already in Ceüse for some filming. Between all the filming I could still find a little bit of time to give „L’étrange Ivresse des Lenteurs“ one try after checking it out a few times on my previous trip to Ceüse. Surprisingly I could link all the bouldery section this route has and did the second?! ascent of it after the FA by @adam.ondra in 2010.
In total I think it took me 5 or 6 tries over 3 days and I once fell on the last hard move with my face at the anchor.
It felt hard for the grade to me so I went and tried „Biographie“ a day later to compare and I personally think „L’étrange Ivresse“ felt more like 9a+/b to me (Adam proposed 9a+). It felt harder to me than both other 9a+’s in Ceüse. Curious to hear what other people think. It looked like people started trying it.“
Derweil probierte sich Jakob Schubert in Alex‘ neuer Toproute „Bibliographie“ (9c) und konnte, auch mit Alex‘ Hilfe alle Züge der Route klettern. Man darf gespannt sein.
After the‘Worldcup‘ in Briançon I finally had the chance to touch some of the best rock in the world again. Together with the @austriaclimbing team we climbed 3 days in amazing Céüse. A short trip but it was perfect to have a first glimpse in the new 9c ‚Bibliographie‘ from @alexandermegos and it definitely got me psyched to return as soon as possible!
Foto: (c) Photo by KVÖ/ @katha_saurwein