Alex Megos mit neuer Highendroute "Bibliographie" 9c

Alex Megos konnte eine Toproute erstbegehen. Er nannte sie „Bibliographie“ und schlägt dafür den Grad 9c vor. Gedenk dessen, dass er in seiner bisherigen Toproute „Perfecto Mundo“ 16 Tage zu brachte und jetzt immerhin 60 Tage, über einige Jahre verteilt benötigte, ist es wohl gerechtfertigt. Es wäre nach „Silence“ von Adam Ondra die zweite Route in diesem Grad. Die 35 m lange Route wurde 2009 von Ethan Pringle eingebohrt und befindet sich im Sektor „Biographie “ in der sich auch die gleichnamige legendäre Route befindet. Einige der Durchstiegsversuche kann man im Rotpunktvideo sehen.

„Sometimes the odds are against you, but it doesn’t mean you don’t have a chance.

Yesterday evening, on my last day of the trip, it definitely wasn’t looking good after messing up the first (and only) try I wanted to do that day. I fell relatively low on the route though, so I decided to give it an infamous “one last go”.

I passed the crux in the middle of the route, and found myself on the poor rest before the final hard section. Twice prior to this burn I had fallen on the last hard move of the route, so I wasn’t feeling super confident. Nonetheless I started off after the rest with full pace and only briefly slowed down to adjust one hold and to get it perfectly. I passed my ‘trouble move’ seemingly effortlessly and despite being completely pumped out of my mind, I was able to pull off the sequence of the last four moves.

After clipping the anchor it seemed like all of the days of work I have put into the route were passing in front of my eyes. With approximately 60 climbing days over the past three years „Bibliographie“ has been by far my longest project to date.

I know there are many speculations about the grade and I think grades are very subjective. My personal suggestion for the grade is 9c (5.15d). Considering the fact, that „Perfecto Mundo“ (9b+) has taken me 16 days of effort, „Bibliographie“ with around 60 days and more specific training felt a lot harder.
Of course, as the first ascensionist you don’t have your perfect beta from the start, you have doubts whether it is possible or not for you, if you are completely missing something, or if you are just not in the best shape. It is always harder to grade something without any other opinion. I am very curious about what the future of the route will look like, and grateful for other people’s opinions.

Independently from the grade, this has been a very valuable experience for me. It marks a personal milestone in my climbing life, one I would have not been able to complete without the support and help of all of my friends and family. Deep gratitude and thanks goes to all of you! (And yes, there is send footage“

5 Gedanken zu „Alex Megos mit neuer Highendroute "Bibliographie" 9c

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